It starts with a glimpse, a pattern or a fabric that catches your eye while rummaging through a basket at a village fete or a rail at the back of a second-hand shop. You shake the item loose, then turn it over. No, you haven’t been mistaken. It is the treasure you’ve been searching for. The holy grail – a Pucci scarf among lace tablecloths, a Mappin and Webb handbag alone on a high shelf (both true stories).
Little compares to the thrill of a vintage find like these. The joy of adding a longed-for item to your collection can be immense, regardless of whether it cost £5 or £500. It’s even better when you have a special occasion such as Revival in mind.
Here, four vintage connoisseurs and Revival-goers share their ultimate finds and what they’re still longing to get their hands on.
Who and what do Revival’s best-dressed wish for? As her Instagram handle, @midcentury_girl, implies, Shauna Marshall is a 1950s fan. She has a particular penchant for leopard print too. “In terms of items I lust after, I am continually searching for 1950s leopard items – clothing, bags, hats, shoes and accessories,” she says.
“Leopard print is so evocative of the 1950s but also transcends well into contemporary fashion. I find leopard print accessories are always the perfect accent on green or red dresses.”
A leopard print dress is at the top of Shauna’s vintage wish list, specifically one by Dior or Suzy Perette, a US brand that incorporated many of the French designer’s signature touches into its more inexpensive line.
Shauna’s most treasured item is from another affordable US label, Elinor Gay, and has strong personal memories attached. “My 1950s Elinor Gay dress is my favourite dress (and that’s hard to decide on as I love all my dresses!). I saw it on Etsy and wanted it for months and then I was able to visit the seller when I was over in Seattle on my honeymoon in 2017,” she explains.
“It reminds me of my wonderful time on holiday and I also wore it to see Dita Von Teese a few years ago so it will always be special to me.”
Vintage enthusiast Bay Garnett actually purchased one of her most treasured vintage items at the Revival. “I found an amazing '70s coat that’s one of my favourite things,” she explains. “I absolutely love it.
“It’s pretty exciting when you stumble across something that you really love. It’s amazing. It cost £30, a big sheepskin collar and nips in at the waist. Very cool.”
From Christian Dior and the nipped-in waist and voluminous skirt of his debut 1947 collection, dubbed the ‘new look’ by Harper’s Bazaar editor-in-chief Carmel Snow, to Mary Quant’s mini-skirts in the 1960s, pick any year of the twentieth century and there will be a handful of designers whose work epitomises the most memorable styles of the period – or even defines them.
If you’re an ardent fan of a specific style, you probably already know which iconic fashion houses are on your wish list. However, the right brand for a vintage look is not always a high-end designer. Depending on how you want to dress, you could be scouring auction house catalogues for a Balenciaga dress with a bubble hem, or you could be searching for a tag from a boutique such as Biba.
“Surprisingly enough our favourite pieces are often from labels considered budget brands in their day,” says Helen Fallows, founder of Revival Vintage, a site that sells both men’s and women’s clothing and accessories.
“We get just as excited discovering a vintage garment from St Michael, C&A, Burton or John Collier as we do any elite designer at the time. They were well-considered pieces that have it all – well made, practical and stylish to suit most body shapes.”
Another stylish guest spotted at Revival favours more practical garments with a stylish edge. “My ‘vintage item lusts’ are American 1950s suits, gab [gaberdine] jackets and decent coats,” says Alan Marshall, “as we spend most of the year in the cold and rain.”
“I’ve been lucky enough to find a few of these items, especially my red and white shirt which is featured in the best 1950s men’s style guidebook, My Freedamn! 2.”
What might you find at this year’s Goodwood Revival? Book your ticket here.
For advice on how to find your dream vintage clothing, see Bay Garnett’s tips or advice from veteran collector Richard Leach
Revival style
Revival 2022