How to buy vintage clothes at auction

Don’t be put off by inexperience of bidding (half the fun is getting it wrong) while today’s ability to bid online makes it easier than ever. And there is nothing more satisfying than beating an opponent to a classic Dior shoe or a Herbert Johnson hat with the click of a button.

So, if you are after that classic tweed suit or a one-of-a-kind 1940s cocktail dress, we’ve curated our top tips for buying key pieces at auction, that you’ll want to cherish forever. And of course, wear at your next Revival.

Getting started: finding an auction house

When searching for auction houses, it can seem a daunting affair but do persevere. Many hold a plethora of pieces perfect to be worn with style and panache (and of course the smug knowledge that no one will be wearing the same thing).

Most cater for both men and women’s vintage attire and some popular favourites include: Tennants, Cotswolds Auction House, 1818 Auctions, Mallams, Sotheby’s, Fieldings Auctioneers and Kerry Taylor Auctions.

For luxury unique vintage items then it has to be Bonhams. They host frequent vintage auctions, including haute couture with historical pieces worn by notable figures – not to mention a car to really top off of your outfit! You can even sign up for their weekly newsletter, which ensures you will always be up to date with all their latest catalogues. But with such prestige be prepared to be among stiff opposition of the cognoscenti.

How to bid at auction

Most auction houses will have a monthly theme and are often set into categories such as jewellery, 1940s and ‘50s. Each auction house will always list their catalogue prior to the auction, so if you want that pair of 1940s brogues or a Lilli Ann swing coat, then you can really hone in on your search.

The expectation of rifling through the online rails is not the only pleasure. Keeping track of all the sales and dates can be hard work, which is why The Saleroom, a central auction system, can be a godsend for those that need salvation quickly. The Saleroom holds information on most auction houses throughout the country and you can even create your own wishlist. The best part? If you are not going to be available on the date, then fear not as you can simply enter your maximum auto-bid and The Saleroom will do all the hard work for you. 

Pick your key pieces before auction

The same rules apply to buying vintage as to buying new clothes: buy less, buy well and only spend as much as you can afford. While you can set out with a specific item in mind, you can swiftly go down a rabbit hole when searching. There are some key pieces, however, that never fail to complete a classic wardrobe.

For men, tweed jackets, waistcoats, and – for the more outlandish – plus fours, all look great and are built with hard-wearing fabrics. Wind proof, water resistant, and made entirely of natural fibres, tweeds such as Harris Tweed and Donegal are great collectors’ items, and frequently available at auctions and estate sales. Brilliant for a gentle and harmonious day out in the Cotswolds, but just as stylish for a swift ale in a cosy pub.

A Lock and Co hat and a pair of Trickers brogues are always a stylish start to a vintage collection. Occasionally with the desirable West Indian Sea Island Cotton, Turnbull & Asser shirts (‘like land, they ain’t making them any more’) while some New & Lingwood Cufflinks make a great accessory… particularly if you’ve nabbed the cream of Saville Row suits, by Huntsman or Henry Poole.

And when you do get an invite to the races, it has to be a top hat. It must be black, it must be silk and it must be Lock & Co. Casual items such as a Dunhill 1950’s lighter (still so debonair to light up someone else’s cigarette) – and don’t forget your Tommy Nutter braces.

For women, whether it’s the glamorous ‘40s, fabulous ‘50s or swinging ‘60s, a classic cocktail dress never goes amiss. Team Mary Quant with a Hermès handbag, Canali shoes, and Asprey jewellery of the desired era for nods of appreciation.

But if you're puzzling for vintage buy tips, remember that many looks were big on matching. Nineteen-forty’s day suits were often worn with complimenting gloves and shoes while the 1950s celebrated the matching dress and swing coat, bolero or shrug.

Tweeds were also highly popular among women. While it started as fabric worn by aristocracy in the 1820s it soon became accessible, particularly in the 1940s when three-piece suits for women arrived. These incorporated trousers, a jacket and a skirt, so that women could cycle in the trousers then change into a skirt on arrival – with cinched waists and padded shoulders still intact!

The caveat: know your vintage sizing

One warning note. Vintage sizes are different from our regular sizes now. While they can give an indication, often things (the best things) were made to measure or adjusted to be passed down through the family. While the general fit and feel of items can be close to the label, they may differ depending on the era and if it was tailored or homemade.

Some auctions will also include measurements but if you are viewing beforehand, always bring a tape measure and get waist, chest, hips and garment length.

Don’t forget the VAT

Auction houses can charge VAT and in some, a further buyer’s commission. While these can be relatively small, they can go up to 20-30 per cent of the price paid, so it’s always best to check with each auction before placing that bid. And do your calculations at your maximum bid, or sometimes that ‘bargain’ can seem a dearer deal.

Don't get seduced by the label

It’s fair to say a well-known label can be enticing. Team that with the quality and reputation of the fashion house and it can seem a fantastic bid, but it is still best to check if the item has any faults, which are frequently listed or can be seen when viewing.

Quality is paramount, and while you may not mind some mending, if you want something you can wear immediately then getting something in mint condition is easier.

Always check the soles of shoes, look at the hems and, the big one, watch out for pesky moths. Moths love natural fibres such as wool and silk and can have a field day with vintage clothes. Once they make a couple of holes, you will need to move fast to keep them away or they’ll be after your entire wardrobe. Set up sticky moth traps, use lavender, cedar wood and if the item is not washable, freeze the item for 24 hours to kill any moth eggs. 

Moths aside, the joy of buying clothes at auction is well worth the hunt. Vintage expert Notty Hornblower believes that unearthing a gem is to be treasured and says: ‘Never throw anything away because fashion is like a merry go round, it always comes back round again!’

This year at Revival, the Revive and Thrive Village will be packed to the rafters with artisans, experts and influencers sharing their wisdom around both thrifting and how to then repair, repurpose and restyle your haul. Learn how to transform old clothes into new looks, scrap metal into works of art and unloved furniture into stylish statement pieces. Book your tickets now to join the second-hand revolution.

Photography George Gunn, Edd Horder and Bonhams.